Rear Alignment

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Rear Alignment

Postby SpeedwaySpyder » Sun Sep 15, 2013 4:57 pm

My right rear wheel is toed out and not there is not enough room to correct it by moving it in the spring plate slots. Any ideas on how to correct this?
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby SpeedwaySpyder » Wed Sep 18, 2013 2:53 pm

Anyone have a similar problem?
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby beck688 » Wed Sep 18, 2013 4:12 pm

Mine only uses the top and the bottom holes - the third hole is towards the rear. Could that be your problem?
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby SpeedwaySpyder » Wed Sep 18, 2013 5:25 pm

No, just the two. It looks like the wheel needs to go foward about 3/4" to be straight. Very wierd. Could engine and trans mount being off change the geometry of rear alignment?
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby beck688 » Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:02 pm

That is a lot of adjustment it would seem that the engine is forward - is it a Beck?
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby SpeedwaySpyder » Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:12 pm

Yes, #37. I was thinking it has to be something like that. I am going to take it to Chris @ Coast Chassis. They build race cars and have done work for me in the past. Something is screwed up for sure. You can see the tire wear and visually it even looks way off. The front edge of the tire is 1" further away from the spring plate than the left side.
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby Ralphc » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:20 pm

Non symmetric chassis. I have the same problem, specifically the axle cutout on the passenger side does not extend forward enough. So, about 1/4" toe out at 0 deg camber.Plan on removing the spring plate and having the axle cutout and bolt slots machined longer. No problem on the driver's side. Ontario Beck #167.
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby SpeedwaySpyder » Thu Sep 19, 2013 2:00 am

Ralph, sounds reasonable to me. I was thinking the same way.
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby bugcollections » Thu Oct 10, 2013 5:57 pm

I have a Beck built in late 08. When I acquired it about 18 months ago it was readily apparent that the rear wheels were both toed out a considerable amount. After measurement it was determined they were out about 1 1/2 total inches. I am old VW mechanic and it is easy to adjust toe on the swing axle. All you have to do is move the axles forward in the spring plate to toe in (decrease toe out). But, problem, the axles were already moved as far forward as possible for the axle cutouts and the bolt holes in the spring plate. When the car was built either the adjustable spring plates, which this car has, are too long, or the engine/tranny are set too far forward in the chassis relative to the spring plates. Solution is to cut out the axle openings and the bolt holes allowing for more forward movement of the axles. I did not want to go to the trouble of removing the spring plates so I did it with them mounted in the car. Managed to do it with a cut-off wheel and a lot of clean up work with a carbite burr cutter on my die grinder. Can't remember exactly, but I had to move each axle forward about 1/2 inch to obtain -0- toe.
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby SpeedwaySpyder » Fri Oct 11, 2013 1:42 am

Thanks for your advice. I also do not want to remove the spring plates. When it cools down a bit more here in Florida, I will try it your way. How long did it take you to do all the work?

Thanks, Dave
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby bugcollections » Tue Oct 15, 2013 3:35 pm

Dave: Not sure I remember correctly, but I think maybe 1 hour for each side for the cutting only. Managed to use my cut off wheel for most of the cutting which makes short work of the metal. Then the carbide burr bit on a die grinder to do the final cutting and the clean up of the metal.
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby Mark P. » Wed Nov 15, 2017 9:19 am

Obviously an old post, but my 1998 Beck has suffered this condition from birth apparently. I've never had the car aligned before yesterday. I installed new tie rod ends and had to break down and find an alignment shop finally. Front was easy. Rear is toe-out by 1/2" on one side and 5/8" on the other. Bolts are at the end of their slots. I've had bad tire wear on the rears and this probably explains it.

Good to hear I can improve the slots without removing the swing plates. Anyone have pictures of this process? Before /After. Suggested tools? What to watch out for?
1998 Beck 550 Spyder
2007 Porsche Boxster S
1991 Nissan Figaro
1970 Fiat 500L
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby EEricson » Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:44 pm

Thanks for reviving this thread, Mark. Gives me something to remember to check as I assemble mine.
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Re: Rear Alignment

Postby Mark P. » Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:18 am

I tried every tool in the garage to get these slots lengthened. In the end, the best method was to drill a hole where I wanted the bolt slot to end, and use a saw of some kind to cut across to it. I bought an hand-held reciprocating air saw that was almost worthless at cutting 1/4" plate but patience and a dozen blades later, it did the job. The sawz-all reciprocating saw was most effective if you have the clearance for it. The axle slot was slightly easier as it allowed more room for the sawz-all. Using the same method, I drilled several holes and then connected them using the sawz-all. I cleaned it all up with a Dremel running a deburring bit.
1998 Beck 550 Spyder
2007 Porsche Boxster S
1991 Nissan Figaro
1970 Fiat 500L
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