Taking the engine out again!

Engines, Transmissions, running gear, etc.

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Taking the engine out again!

Postby Mtflyr » Tue Sep 12, 2017 2:56 pm

I'm pretty bummed about it since I just had it out in July. My friend and I did a bunch of good things to make it a tad easier to take it out but it's still a bear. Right after we put the engine back in it had an oil leak. I was going to wait until the winter but wanted to just get it done. The leak is enough to get oil all over the underside and back when I drive it so I'd have to clean the Clam-Shell, exhaust etc.

In July we replaced the rear trans mount and rear section of the trans, put in aluminum push rods, a new Sachs throw out bearing, Kennedy clutch, pressure plate, and new flywheel as well as a new engine main seal(I think that's the leak source valve covers ok, push rod tubes ok, cooling tower ok new seals there too). Also installed new fuel and clutch cables and cut easy access holes in the tunnel for any future cable replacement ( I highly recommend this if you've ever replaced the pedal cluster or either cable it's a challenge to contort to do so). It's very frustrating to do this again so soon but it must be done. I'm getting good at this too.

We also welded the engine mount nuts to the frame so it would be easier to remove the engine, cut and welded the cross member bar to the shock towers and placed tabs (As some Becks have) and made electric pull wire plugs for all the rear light wires for easier clam-shell removal.

The main thing I wanted to let folks know if you have a Beck is to check how the clutch cable steel tube is mounted to your engine. In my case we had to cut it off and grind the weld point off as the steel tube had a sharp bend in it to clear the engine. If I ever had a cable break on the road, even though I carry a spare I would not have been able to change it as the tube bend was too sharp to install a new threaded end cable. So we replaced it with a short section of copper water pipe tube and used a SS clamp around the frame. Also to take my Raby DTM fan shrouded engine out the carbs, generator, distributor, exhausts and crank pulley have to come off for clearance from the fire wall and frame. Even then there's only about a 1/2" or less of clearance to get the engine out. The trans also has to be slightly tilted up to do so.

Just venting a little and letting folks know it's a challenge to pull the engine out of this car. :D Should be out tomorrow and hopefully see where my leak is. :)
Pete
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby egrant5329 » Tue Sep 12, 2017 4:34 pm

Sounds like you are doing some good work and yes it is frustrating at times.
I'd change to a hydrallic clutch. It's so much easier and trouble free with no cables to break.
Ed
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby EEricson » Tue Sep 12, 2017 5:56 pm

Sorry for your troubles, Pete. Also surprised to hear how tough it is to pull the engine. It looks so accessible.
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby Mtflyr » Tue Sep 12, 2017 6:21 pm

Thanks Ed since doing the mods it went a lot easier today we'll have it out tomorrow and hopefully find the leak source. Yes, looking at it one would think so. It's the frame cross tube that prevents moving forward then the firewall. Have you an engine to put in yours? Are you going air cooled?
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby egrant5329 » Wed Sep 13, 2017 1:50 am

Yep mine has been aircooled since 1986. I have pulled the engine and transaxle before and it is not the easiest thing to do. I mounted an electric winch in the garage ceiling and did everything by myself. The crank pulley had to come off on my Beck to get it in. I thought about taking the oil pump cover off, but was able to work it in anyway. Getting the axle circ clips on was the hardest part of the transaxle. It would be really helpful if the shock support came out in mine, but it doesn't. To me it would make sense to make the engine mount crossbar removable, then you could drop the engine and trans straight down, lift the back of the car up and slide it out.
Ed
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby RBP » Wed Sep 13, 2017 5:24 am

I have a Vintage with a T4 and DTM. I just found it easier to pull the assembly out in one piece! Engine and transaxle together is far easier than trying to pull the engine separate. Not sayin its easy just easier! Its a PITA but if its gota be done then its gota be done!

Pete, you mentioned a clutch cable? What is that? Do you not have a hydraulic clutch with the master / slave cylinder arrangement?
Vintage, 2316 Type IV
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby albaran » Wed Sep 13, 2017 8:52 am

I have a Thunder Ranch which is similar to a Beck. It came with a removable member across the shock towers and I made the transmission cross member removable which makes it easier to take everything out.
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby Mtflyr » Wed Sep 13, 2017 11:44 am

RBP,
Yes I have a cable driven clutch. It's fine I like it and don't have any plans to change to a hydraulic at this time since I just did the new cable and mod to the cable tube.

We got the engine out this morn and found it was the new but we think broken Mex flywheel seal. It looked like the seal spring was broken. So we ordered a different premium seal and a new clutch (not sure what makes it premium except more $ :D ). The only one month old clutch was oil soaked so I'd rather have a new one at this point should have the parts by Monday and be able to get it back together on Monday.

Was in good company with a 63 sunroofed 356 coupe.

Albaran, can you show some detailed pictures of your removable trans cross member?

Thanks,

Pete
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby Mtflyr » Wed Sep 13, 2017 11:47 am

The 356 coupe:

Pete
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby EEricson » Wed Sep 13, 2017 5:18 pm

Hey Pete, if it was me you were asking, yeah, I bought a Jake Raby-built 1914 from Carey to put in the Spyder.

Built in 2007 as one of a series for Beck and run less than 2000km in a Beck Speedster, which Carey had in the shop for a Subie conversion. The 1914 has Weber 44s, Engle W125 cam, full flow, balance, BugPack 35 x 40 heads with 080 deck for 8.5-1 compression, lightened flywheel & etc. Rated at 120 hp @5500. Nice mild engine and should be ready to run, although I plan to put a bigger oil pump in since I'm mounting the cooler in front. It'll get a Mocal sandwich and an Accusump accumulator to go with the 1.5 sump. It's got a DTM shroud. I've got the stock 4-into-1 half-inch exhaust that came with the kit & which looks like it won't fit right, but we'll see.
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby Mtflyr » Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:12 pm

That's right Ed now I remember you and I have the same Raby series engines.
The SS 4into exhaust on mine due the the large diameter pipes had to hammered flat in areas where it would/could hit the frame on only the right side.
You going up to the Porsche/VW swap meet at Roundtop ski area this weekend? If the weather holds, Bill M. From Potomac MD, my friend Russell Kessler from Falls Church VA who's helping with my car and I are going. Russell 's got some 914 parts and other Porsche parts to sell.
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby albaran » Fri Sep 15, 2017 3:48 am

This is how I made the transmission member removable. I cut it and made a square sleeve that slides over it.
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Re: Taking the engine out again!

Postby Mtflyr » Fri Sep 15, 2017 4:08 am

Thanks for the picture Albaran.

Pete
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