Fuel line break...

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Fuel line break...

Postby 986Spyder » Wed Apr 06, 2016 11:45 am

I was going to take the Spyder to a VW club show last summer and upon start up I smelled a strong odor of fuel. I immediately shut down the car and noticed a pool under the car. I pushed it back into it's space and discovered it was in fact fuel. I was able to determine it was leaking from the line that goes directly into the carb. This was a steel braided line but, I believe this is a rubber line with steel braid surrounding it. It has the fancy fittings that are red and blue. Is there an "off the shelf" line I can replace this with or is it more of a custom made type thing?

Little info on the car, it's a 1999 Beck 550 with a 1914cc in it. Let me see if I have a picture under the hood.

It is the line seen in this photo except on the other side. I don't have a picture of the other side.
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby WasserSpyder » Thu Apr 07, 2016 4:40 am

I cannot be 100% sure from the photo, but I believe that will be -6AN in size. I'd use Aeroquip (AQP) hose as a replacement. We've also had good luck with Russell brand hoses. There are a TON of other "steel braided" hoses that look the same but are NOT. We've serviced several cars with off brand hose that was hard as a rock and only a few years old...
You buy it by the foot (Summit Racing, Jegs, etc). If you are cutting it yourself, wrap the location of the cut in electrical tape and cut through the middle of your tape. This will keep the ends from fraying while you cut. Clean the hose of any debris and reattach the fittings to the new hose (oil the fittings for easy install).
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby Larry Jowdy » Thu Apr 07, 2016 5:31 am

In addition to what Carey said, ""are you sure it's the hose that's leaking?"" In most cases it's the fitting especially the "Banjo" fitting on the carburetor. Have you thoroughly determined that there's a hole in the hose. If you're sure then buy hose as recommended and re-use the ends that are on your existing hose.

It's easy, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeeflgGlenY
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby albaran » Thu Apr 07, 2016 7:49 am

I agree with Larry. Real AN braided hose is very rugged and I would find it hard to believe that it would bust with the low pressures that we use for these cars. Can you run the fuel pump without turning the engine on and observe where the leak is? There were a bunch of "decorative" fake AN fittings sold that pushed on to regular worm clamps. I would check closer to see if that's what they are.
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby 986Spyder » Thu Apr 07, 2016 8:59 am

The only marking on any fitting is the blue one and it says EARL'S. I don't have the hose or the ends anymore I guess that was discarded by mechanic. I did determine it was the hose as it was in the middle of the hose. Turned the ignition on thus the fuel pump was running and it was a steady drip out the middle of the line. I need the hose and the red ends.
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby Larry Jowdy » Thu Apr 07, 2016 5:51 pm

If the hose had a slight bend the gas would drip from the lowest point if a fitting was bad. Giving the impression that it was a hole in the hose
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby 986Spyder » Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:38 am

I'll just buy all new fittings for that line and the line itself. It's impossible for me to determine if the line was broken or the banjo fitting is bad as I don't have the line anymore. I think it was discarded by the mechanic when he wanted to run all new lines. I don't think that's necessary and want to get this car back on the road asap with this unpredictably gorgeous weather we're having.

Are EARL'S fittings of good quality?
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby Larry Jowdy » Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:48 am

Yes, Earl's fitting are good.
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby 986Spyder » Sun Apr 10, 2016 8:44 am

Thank you All for the help. Less than a hundred bucks in parts and it should be back on the road next week!
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby 986Spyder » Wed Sep 21, 2016 11:20 am

I finally got around to working on this and bought the wrong fittings. Can anyone link me to the correct fittings that are pictured on the working carb?

This is a bit of a puzzle to me because I didn't take it apart. Here's what I'm working with, I'm going to assume I should also buy new fiber washers? I bought 10' of aeroquip -6AN steel braided line.

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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby Drummerskey » Thu Sep 22, 2016 12:26 pm

I have the same type of lines where the steel braiding isn't a "sleeve". My fittings are different though.

I do want your air filter covers though. Did you buy those?
Scratch and Sniff model avaiable
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby 986Spyder » Mon Sep 26, 2016 12:22 pm

I believe the air filter covers were custom made by the previous owner. He went through a lot of trouble covering the interior in aluminum and sourcing a 550 number plate to make it appear more authentic.
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby sjgharib » Mon Sep 26, 2016 1:11 pm

You don't need all new fittings.

Was the mechanic the one who broke the red portion from the blue on the fitting, then threw away the braided line and the red socket? If so, I suggest you don't let him touch any other AN line because he doesn't know what he's doing.

The fittings are completely re-useable. You can simply get replacement -6 red sockets from here:

https://www.anplumbing.com/hose-ends/swivel-seal.html
The part you want (assuming it's a -6 line, which from the picture appears so):
898063ERL -6 Red Swivel-Seal Auto-Fit Replacement Socket

Then buy the matching line:
https://www.anplumbing.com/hose/perform-o-flex.html
400060ERL -6 SOLD BY THE FOOT IN CONTINUOUS LENGTH. Premium Racing Hose. THE BEST! Use Swivel-Seal Or Auto-Fit Hose Ends

You can then re-use the blue parts.

I can't tell from the picture, but on the end that isn't a banjo fitting, you may have a -6 female, a -6 male to male coupler, and then another -6 female.
An alternate (to eliminate a fitting and reduce the number of joints) is to build the new hose with one of these:

840106ERL -6 -6 , 9/16-18 Straight Swivel-Seal Hose End. A.N. Male. Flare

$6 for the red sockets, $8 for a foot of hose = done
or
$3 for one socket, $12 for the male hose to flare fitting, and $8 for a foot of hose = done better

Google "assemble AN hose fittings" to watch a youtube video on putting them together, but the previous posts on assembling AN line is good info.
or watch this one here: https://www.anplumbing.com/swivel_seal


Of course this is all overkill for low pressure fuel lines, but they do look pretty! I echo the sentiment of the others - performo-flex hose should not just spontaneously leak. Much more likely a badly assembled joint, but I guess you won't know.

more info - the full banjo fittings are these:
since you can re-use the banjo bolt, I think the rest of the fitting is identical, so it probably doesn't matter which one you buy. But these are ~$22, so better to just buy the $3 socket!
807694ERL -6 9/16-24 Banjo Hose End - Small Inlet Holley 9/16-24 Bolt
807692ERL -6 12mm x 1.5 Banjo Hose End - Weber W/ 12x1.5 Bolt
807691ERL -6 12mm x 1.25 Banjo Hose End - Solex, Mikuni, Dellorto W/ 12x1.25 Bolt
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Re: Fuel line break...

Postby dlearl476 » Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:51 pm

sjgharib wrote:You don't need all new fittings.

Was the mechanic the one who broke the red portion from the blue on the fitting, then threw away the braided line and the red socket? If so, I suggest you don't let him touch any other AN line because he doesn't know what he's doing.

The fittings are completely re-useable. You can simply get replacement -6 red sockets from here:

https://www.anplumbing.com/hose-ends/swivel-seal.html
The part you want (assuming it's a -6 line, which from the picture appears so):
898063ERL -6 Red Swivel-Seal Auto-Fit Replacement Socket

Then buy the matching line:
https://www.anplumbing.com/hose/perform-o-flex.html
400060ERL -6 SOLD BY THE FOOT IN CONTINUOUS LENGTH. Premium Racing Hose. THE BEST! Use Swivel-Seal Or Auto-Fit Hose Ends

You can then re-use the blue parts.

I can't tell from the picture, but on the end that isn't a banjo fitting, you may have a -6 female, a -6 male to male coupler, and then another -6 female.
An alternate (to eliminate a fitting and reduce the number of joints) is to build the new hose with one of these:

840106ERL -6 -6 , 9/16-18 Straight Swivel-Seal Hose End. A.N. Male. Flare

$6 for the red sockets, $8 for a foot of hose = done
or
$3 for one socket, $12 for the male hose to flare fitting, and $8 for a foot of hose = done better

Google "assemble AN hose fittings" to watch a youtube video on putting them together, but the previous posts on assembling AN line is good info.
or watch this one here: https://www.anplumbing.com/swivel_seal


Of course this is all overkill for low pressure fuel lines, but they do look pretty! I echo the sentiment of the others - performo-flex hose should not just spontaneously leak. Much more likely a badly assembled joint, but I guess you won't know.

more info - the full banjo fittings are these:
since you can re-use the banjo bolt, I think the rest of the fitting is identical, so it probably doesn't matter which one you buy. But these are ~$22, so better to just buy the $3 socket!
807694ERL -6 9/16-24 Banjo Hose End - Small Inlet Holley 9/16-24 Bolt
807692ERL -6 12mm x 1.5 Banjo Hose End - Weber W/ 12x1.5 Bolt
807691ERL -6 12mm x 1.25 Banjo Hose End - Solex, Mikuni, Dellorto W/ 12x1.25 Bolt


Thanks for all those part numbers. Changing my fuel lines from rubber hoses and hose clamps to AN plumbing is one of the projects I want to get done this summer. I spent a half hour or so the other night but I could never get a solid line on the banjo fitting for my dellortos.
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