Sputtering

Engines, Transmissions, running gear, etc.

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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Tue May 17, 2016 3:54 am

They might be metal wire mesh on the outside, what is the membrane that actually filters the air. Typical material is foam (washed and reuse), paper (replace) or the fine metal with small perforations (clean and oil). Most of the 550's I've seen have the ones like mine and require the cleaning and oiling to work.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Tue May 17, 2016 4:44 am

That's concerning..... There is nothing inside the wire mesh. I noted that as odd when I was checking around but assumed it was odd but normal.

You can barely see through the wire mesh so I assume clean and oil
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Tue May 17, 2016 6:20 am

Yes that is the same is mine and most everyone else. I forget the K&N part # but almost all auto part stores will have the kit, about 20.00 I think. Won't take long to do and makes a huge difference in the filtering.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Tue May 17, 2016 6:29 am

I had already found some and was going to grab it this week. I remember seeing brass tube things coming out of my carbs and thought that might be jet doctors but will have to look again later.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RVosari » Tue May 17, 2016 7:10 am

RVosari If you're going to run 110 octane fuel all the time, then you can bump up the timing to 32 degree's before top dead center at 3, 000 RPM's and probably a bit more.
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I don’t typically use 100% race gas or Av Gas (100LL)…I had a problem in April on a warm day (around 80⁰ F) with (winter gas - with high RVP). The car heat soaked badly resulting in popping and banging after it sat for 10-15 minutes…so I drove to a friend’s shop and filled it up with race gas…and the problem went away. :)

I have 2 mechanical distributors with different advance curves…of the 2, the Pertronix distributor’s advance curve seems to roll-in better.

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Re: Sputtering

Postby Carlos G » Tue May 17, 2016 7:52 am

Drummer,

Those brass tube things inbetween the velocity stacks are the emulsion tube holders. They hold the emulsion tubes and the main and air jets.


weber 44 idt exploded s.jpg


Sorry about the low res picture, but this should help with part id.
Last edited by Carlos G on Tue May 17, 2016 8:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Tue May 17, 2016 7:53 am

If you look at the attached pic you will note 2 round brass colored snorkels towards the front and then 2 larger brass jet holders in the centre between the velocity stacks. The smaller brass snorkels/tubes are the jet doctors, if you have them they are immediately visible when you remove the filter.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Carlos G » Tue May 17, 2016 7:55 am

Weber 44 IDF.jpg
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Tue May 17, 2016 11:19 am

http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/im ... 137152.jpg

This is my air filter. Still not positive about the Jet Doctors, I wasn't really looking for those when I had the filters off. I was looking for oil/dirt/etc

How often, how difficult is it to change the fuel filter while we are at it. My fuel filter is pictured below

https://flic.kr/p/Gkr7SM
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Tue May 17, 2016 12:35 pm

From the look of the photo I'd say that fuel filter doesn't owe you anything. The sooner you can change it the better. In my opinion you need to do everything you can to keep the fuel supply to the carbs as clean as you possibly can. The price for an up scale filter might be 10.00, well worth it.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Tue May 17, 2016 1:03 pm

No issue with the money, just wondering if that was a novice job or a mechanic job.

I'd have no idea how to get the filter off or if I would have to disconnect the fuel pump and what the process for that is too.

I have been trying to get things shored up mechanically.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Larry Jowdy » Tue May 17, 2016 2:13 pm

Removing the fuel filter is very simple. There's probably a hose clamp on each end. Loosen the clamps and remove the filter. It's wise to have a new filter on hand, available at most auto parts stores. (take a photo of the filter with you to the store) Depending on how full your gas tank is, it may be wise to pinch off the hose coming from the bulkhead (not the hose going to the fuel pump. Look at the old filter and if the previous owner cut off one of the graduated plastic step inlet/outlets of the filter, do the same then re-install and tighten the hose clamps.

Once you have the filter in hand, I'm allowing you 20 minutes to complete this task. Any longer and you must sell your car OK? LOL
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Tue May 17, 2016 2:38 pm

Larry, His filter is just hanging in the air, the hose connections on each end are pushed on and there are no fasteners. The filter looks 20 years old. Also if that filter let a line go and sprayed fuel all over the ignition system I don't want to imagine what may happen!

Drummer, if I were you I'd get rid of that filter and relocate the new one somewhere less prone to fire should a leak occur. The existing filter is upstream of the fuel pump, all you would need to do is pull the hoses off the filter at each end. Be ready to plug the line from the tank when you do this. After that just push the hoses on the new filter connectors and add hose clamps on either side to make sure the connections stay.
Last edited by RBP on Tue May 17, 2016 2:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Tue May 17, 2016 2:40 pm

Mine appears to be one of those quick connect jobs, there is no clamp. It looks as easy as that starter as long as I can figure out how it comes off. Special tool or brute force?

And deal Larry
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Tue May 17, 2016 2:45 pm

Just pull the hose off and as noted above be ready to plug the line from the tank.
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