Sputtering

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Re: Sputtering

Postby Larry Jowdy » Tue May 17, 2016 2:49 pm

That type of in-line plastic fuel filter "needs" to have hose clamps on each end. If not, it could vibrate loose and the next thing you'll know is your engine and possibly you are on fire.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Tue May 17, 2016 2:50 pm

Just re-routing the hose lower and tacking down the below the distributor or completely away from distributor?

I have a project for the weekend then.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Tue May 17, 2016 3:18 pm

So, help a moron out..................I looked at the route of the fuel line and found 3 things I cannot recognize.

What are these?

https://flic.kr/p/GkKMqT

https://flic.kr/p/GkKMJD

After a closer look, it looks like they routed the fuel line around the distributor to keep the fuel line from catching on the fan belt. I may be able to feed the line from the bulkhead but the other end of that line after that thing in the picture feeds the passenger side carb and feeds out to the drivers' side. Not that its safe and I get that but that one component is right next to the distributor so a fuel line will be around there anyway.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Tue May 17, 2016 8:51 pm

Yay Google!

So, is it just me or did someone use a fuel filter to splice the fuel line to the fuel pump and then put another one between the fuel pump and carb?
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Larry Jowdy » Wed May 18, 2016 3:52 am

From the gas tank to the fuel pump there is a fuel filter. From the fuel pump to the carburetors there may or may not be a fuel filter. I recommend a fuel filter in this location along with the filter from the tank to the fuel pump.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Wed May 18, 2016 3:59 am

I have the main filter between the tank and pump located up front out of the engine bay. There is lots of room in the location of the front beam.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Wed May 18, 2016 4:36 am

If you were able to look at the pictures, from the bulkhead and with the placement of the fuel pump near the distributor...... Any suggestions on where to run the fuel line to avoid issue of fire?

I found a fuel filter on CB Performance that looks like the metal one between the pump and carb and the 20 year old one with no hose clamps between the bulk head and pump.

Also, there is something electrical at the gas tank.....that was what was tripping me up. I thought that was the pump.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Wed May 18, 2016 6:02 am

Not to complicate things but if I were you, I'd do it right. First off get the fuel pump blank off plate from CB, http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=3179 you then remove the mechanical fuel pump and cover the opening with the blank off plate. Next purchase a new electric fuel pump from CB http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=3193 and install it in the space below your tank where the front beam is located, lots of space. Next you will need to run power and ground to the new pump, mine is wired to a switch on my dash, others just have it powered when the ignition switch is in the on position. Both are very easy to do, maybe an hour of work. I would then check the existing gas line if its metal, reuse it, if its rubber and if it looks in the same condition as that fuel filter I'd change it with new line and if you really want to go the extra mile a fuel filter on the inlet to each carb. The electrical in the tank is the fuel gauge sending unit. It sounds like a big undertaking but it is relatively straight forward. I'm not sure but I think L will give you 4 hours for the job. :sadnana:
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Fri May 20, 2016 5:47 am

As an update........sadly, no jet doctors. Cleaned and oiled the air filters (I didn't realize how dirty they were). While I have everything off this weekend, I am going to degrease the engine a bit. I had already cleaned it up a bit a while ago but want to use the Brake Kleen and see how that works.

RBP, I like your suggestion and appreciate the time you put into it but I think this time, I am going to replace the fuel line, the fuel filter, get some hose clamps where they need to be and then try to re-route the fuel lines as much away from the coils and alternator as possible (though it looks a bit unavoidable).

So that you know, the reasoning is that adding the 12v accessory plug has already shown me that I don't have any open "hot" locations under the dash and its a real mess of wires that I have as another project. Considering a complete new wire harness so I can clean it up and might change the key ignition to a push start/something. Just needing the power to relocated the pump would move to that project and I want to try to keep her on the road during the nice weather.................Additionally, I really like and would prefer to run that fuel bar thing that splits the fuel line to both carbs. I could put that near the bulkhead and it would look cleaner and keep all the fuel away from anything electrical but it's a larger project than I want to do so fixing it now seems like a better plan and not too much money.

I had already planned to paint my exhaust. Turns out some SOS pads and water get them paint ready.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Fri May 20, 2016 11:13 am

Nothing wrong with that, just clean it up and make sure the filters and rubber lines are new or in good condition. My line runs out of the tank to the filter then into the fuel pump. From there it is a metal line that travels from the front to the rear engine bay. The metal line then bends and follows the fire wall/bulkhead up to a height equal to the carb inlets. Then there is a metal T and metal lines travels horizontally toward each carb, each line then bends at the appropriate location to the carb inlet, the metal line ends about 3" from the fire wall and from there it is rubber line. Its pretty easy when you are putting it together yourself and everything is new and the engine is not in yet.

The thing with the filters is that they are not charged with oil they don't filter so you would be getting a lot of that crap into your carbs.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Larry Jowdy » Fri May 20, 2016 11:21 am

By the way, in regard to air filters. The biggest No, No for K&N filters is over oiling them. They need a "VERY THIN" spray of oil as it wicks throughout the filter element. IF you can see wet oil on the filter, it's over oiled. I spray a very light coat of oil on the filters and at first it seems that it didn't cover all the material but in a 1/2 hour the filter material is covered due to the wicking action.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Fri May 20, 2016 3:40 pm

Larry......as luck would have it. I read your comment after oiling my filters.

I oiled it, outside only and let it wick for 20 minutes and went back per instructions and hit places it didn't look uniform.

Although I hit it sparingly 3" away, I wasn't thinking about over-oiling and concerned I may have overdone it.

Any fixes without hitting it with cleaner and repeating?

There are a few small spots that look a little pooled but most o it is fine. I can see light through it but can't see through it.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Sat May 21, 2016 3:54 am

I did the same thing. I followed the instructions and sprayed till they were the light red color then after sitting for 20 minutes respray any areas that weren't reddish in color. Likely I over oiled as well.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby danstern » Sat May 21, 2016 5:58 am

Over oiling can be an issue with fuel injected (FI) cars as the oil can foul the mass-air sensor. On carb cars it's just messy. If you think there is enough oil to mist the air on the way to the engine you should clean and oil again. MAF sensors are not cheap.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby beck688 » Sat May 21, 2016 6:02 am

I find that a little alcohol on a q-tip will fix a MAF sensor right up. They are usually easy to get to takes 5 minutes.
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