Sputtering

Engines, Transmissions, running gear, etc.

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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Sat May 21, 2016 11:48 am

Well, changing the fuel line and filter took me 10 minutes so, I guess I don't have to sell my car Larry. :)

However, funny but not so funny story......I asked the wife to hold the fuel line wrapped in a rag from the bulkhead while I tightened the hose clamp. She held the rag, not the line and let gas pour out into the garage until she mentioned she saw something leaking. "Why would I ask you to hold a effin rag in the mid air in the engine bay dear?"

Also, when I pulled the line off of the filter, a quarter sized spot of gas landed on the distributor. I wiped it off with a rag......Concern?
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Larry Jowdy » Sat May 21, 2016 2:23 pm

No!!!!
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Sat May 21, 2016 3:07 pm

Thanks.

The hose clamp on the fuel pump port will not come off with considerable pulling and the old hose came off with less force but even though the clamps are tight and I used fuel injector style clamps, I can still spin the hose without much effort.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Sun May 22, 2016 7:13 pm

Sorry guys, I am sure it's annoying to deal with someone who hasn't worked on cars before but I am trying. I could really use an answer on the previous post.

As stated, it's securely on the fuel pump port and I tightened it the best I could, it spins on the port less than it did but still can turn. I am considering getting smaller diameter fuel line and re-doing it. I don't want to unless it's necessary. Please help.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby danstern » Sun May 22, 2016 7:35 pm

I'd reply but, don't know the diameter of the two things you're connecting and the I.d. of the hose you're using.I don't think you should be able to turn the hose. I'd first use a small hose clamp to see if it was possible to tighten beyond turning. If not, the hose is probably to big. The hesitation on answers may be that without inspection, it's hard to say. Leaking fuel is obviously dangerous. This may be worth driving by the mechanic and asking if it's 'right'.
If you can get a smaller inside diameter fuel line on both end, you should definitely do that. It will minimize the chance of a leak.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Sun May 22, 2016 8:00 pm

I am going to change the line over to be safe. The old line only went over the small end of the universal clear on-line filter and the new hose ( the one in question) goes over the large end. I believe the measurements were 3.5mm and 5mm. Without the clamp, it leaks so that's probably my answer.

My mechanic said it was okay if it turned but I think he assumed I had the right size line. I didn't think it should turn either.

Thanks Dan
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Mon May 23, 2016 3:52 am

Did you compare the old filter connections with the new one? Were they the same? If your old one held with no clamps I'd bet the filter you bought has the wrong size barb fittings. If you get a smaller hose then you may have an issue when you try and connect it to the fuel pump and to what ever the originating connector is. I suggest you look at the old filter barb fittings and make sure the new filter is the same.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Mon May 23, 2016 4:32 am

Pretty sure the filter is the same and I got the wrong line size. I have 2 different size lines on the car.....one for the in and one for the out (pump) but I am taking the old hose and filter to my mechanic to make sure I get the right size. He sells VW parts too.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Mon May 23, 2016 2:46 pm

Fixed. Nothing moves, fuel line is as much out of the way of electrical parts as possible, and I secured the line a little to keep from moving. No kinks, no hard turns, no leaks and this last time took me 6 minutes to change the line and replace the clamps.

Thanks for the help and more importantly, your patience. Can't run her to find out if that fixes the sputtering but I'll update that later.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Sat May 28, 2016 7:25 am

If one were to have their carbs adjusted with a dirty, possibly blocked fuel filter and dirty air filter, would it require a new adjustment once those things are remedied?

The car rides better and I thought it may just be the fact that it was 90 degrees out, but it was still a little rough.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Sat May 28, 2016 8:16 am

In my opinion no, you are fine. The cleaning and treatment of the filters is to prevent dirt from passing through the filter into your idle circuit and causing problems. As noted before the air filters don't work without oil, they will filter out large particulate but not small. Also kind of the same with the gas filter, the new one will prevent small particles from passing through.

Also what was 90 deg out?
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Sat May 28, 2016 8:27 am

The weather, it was really hot an humid yesterday.

My thoughts were based on the adjustments on the carb which I thought was air and fuel but that's why I'm not a mechanic :)
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Sat May 28, 2016 11:06 am

The carbs were fine it was just the idle jets that required cleaning, at least that's what I thought. If your mechanic was at least decent he would have made sure that the idle circuits were clear otherwise he wouldn't have been able to tune the carbs worth crap. Based on this I figured you were running pretty good after your mechanic worked on your car.

What I thought happened was he tuned the carbs, the car ran fine, then after you drove for a while, the jets were getting dirt in them which caused them to act up. All the work you did was focused on making sure the gas and air filters work efficiently, this will help prevent dirt from getting into your jets. Adding the jet doctors will also be a big help.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby Drummerskey » Sat May 28, 2016 2:28 pm

Yeah, he did work and I took it for the first long trip and aggressive driving and then it started riding a bit rough. The fuel filter, lines and oiled air filter seems to have helped a bit. Still seems to need something.
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Re: Sputtering

Postby RBP » Sat May 28, 2016 3:13 pm

Well if you don't have the jet doctors it is very easy for dirt to enter your carbs. If you remove your air cleaner you will see 2 holes on the filter base (see photo I posted) where the jet doctor snorkels would be, at least I think so, been so long since I installed them I don't remember where the original air intake is. The dirt is drawn in from the bottom base of the filter assy. As you can imagine that's where any particulate would be and from there it is drawn right into the idle jet circuit. That is why the jet doctors were produced.

Over time you will become more familiar with how the webers work and all this will seem quite simple. Is there anyone close that you could visit. You should read this instruction by Danny and try to become familiar with the various parts of the carbs and how to set them. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=14341#p136371

As I found out after a year of trying everything possible, you will never have them tuned right without the high RPM sync. After I did that there was no more burbling and popping, just the beautiful sound of the engine braking.
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