Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

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Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Drummerskey » Mon Aug 29, 2016 5:40 am

I am trying out a new mechanic and he was out yesterday to let me know what he wants to do. He is going to check the valve adjustment, check the timing to Larry's recommendations, make sure my carbs are synced properly and some other general maintenance. This guy is a VW mechanic and I have seen his handy work, he is very good. However, he had some suggestions and I wanted to your take.

- He wants to get rid of the stock fuel pump and change it to an electric one? Could have said electronic but he said it was in line. He is also going to change my fuel lines so that they feed both carbs from a "Y" instead of the current set up (into one carb and behind the engine to the other) and get the fuel lines away from the distributor and laying over the engine block. Any suggestions on whether this is a good change and what parts he should use specifically would be greatly appreciated.

- He suggested a tin around the doghouse oil cooler, not the fan - where it exhausts from - to push the air down. I didn't know if this was really needed or if the external oil cooler was really the best choice.

- He also suggested wrapping my headers/exhaust in something to reduce the engine bay heat.

as always, your advice is always greatly appreciated.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby danstern » Mon Aug 29, 2016 6:30 am

Sounds quite reasonable. I thought we all had electric fuel pumps. If you don't you should. Rerouting also sounds appropriate (too close to heat is a fire hazard). External oil coolers add significant cooling and most of of us use them. Exhaust wrap looks cool, is cheap, and has some benefit, though I've never figured out how much (hot rodders like it). Sounds like a reasonable fellow.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Drummerskey » Mon Aug 29, 2016 8:03 am

You can zoom in on the picture to see my fuel pump in between the distributor and alternator. Pretty sure it is rotary.............

I told him I wanted to do the external oil cooler, his suggestion was for a "tin" on the exhaust of the doghouse. Wasn't sure I wanted to do that.

https://flic.kr/p/Gkr7SM


I am happy to have my fuel lines re-routed though, I don't like them so close to the distributor or hanging so close to the heat of the engine. Plus, I like that they will be fed into both carbs instead of into one and then that one feeds the other.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby RVosari » Mon Aug 29, 2016 9:59 am

You have a motor and climate similar to mine in downtown Connecticut...we don't live in the desert or CA where it does get to 100+ F...so the additional oil cooler is just more (needless) complexity. The additional sheet metal for the dog-house cooler will simply create another "radiator" that will radiate heat in hot weather in your engine compartment...and it will absolutely reduce the efficiency of your dog-house cooler.

An electric pump is useful...I have both a mechanical and electric pump in tandem (I use the electric pump when I run at consistent high RPM...over 4500 RPM)

There is no advantage to running the "Y" fuel line set-up for the carbs since the first carb has an inlet by-pass that will easily accomodate carb # 2 in terms of fuel-flow.

The header wrap may help to reduce radiated heat in hot weather and thermodynamicaly may keep more power in the system

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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Drummerskey » Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:54 am

You're my favorite Rev, always to the point :)

I thought if the tin around the doghouse would help, I would have seen more examples of it here. The benefit to the Y on the fuel lines is getting it away from the electrical bits though, right?

No point in having him do it if not.

He said something about "hot gas" possibly creating an issue where my fuel line lays on the engine.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby RVosari » Mon Aug 29, 2016 12:50 pm

Look at:...it's cheap and simple and keeps hot air from the carb

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16532

I run my second carb line just like your car does...I have a fuel pressure gauge and a dense foam block to keep it from any thing hot...and clipped down to prevent being drawn into the fan or moving around

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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Ralphc » Mon Aug 29, 2016 5:41 pm

Regarding the suggestion to wrap your header; it is preferable to ceramic coat inside & out for heat control purposes. I had a high heat painted header that I ran wrapped for about six months. When I removed the wrap, the header had visible rust-like corrosion. I live in a dry climate so moisture was not the cause. Research pointed to corrosion due to thermal cycling of the wrapped pipe. If you want your pipe to last do not wrap it. The 'racy' look was kind of cool, though.
If your engine has a full flow oil system and a remote filter, then a separate cooler and thermostat make sense; if not the dog house cooler is fine.
The 'y' in the fuel line is not necessary.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Drummerskey » Mon Aug 29, 2016 6:24 pm

K, so no on the wrap then.......no on the doghouse tin.

You all are saying yes to the electrical fuel pump though, right? Better than the rotary? Make any difference?

My fuel lines pretty much lay on the engine, zip tied under the fan so it doesn't move. I do understand the Y isn't necessary and I could keep it in line so I guess I need to decide on that but if he replaces the fuel pump anyway, I may do it just to move the lines out of the way.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby RVosari » Tue Aug 30, 2016 4:33 am

Most people use an electric pump (either rotary or reciprocating) by the fuel tank in the front...so re-routing the fuel lines would not be necessary.

Make sure that fuel leaks don't occur near the distributor or you could get unexpected spark ignition of fuel... [:0]

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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Drummerskey » Tue Aug 30, 2016 5:00 am

To put it up front, does that require pulling the gas tank?
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby RVosari » Tue Aug 30, 2016 5:22 am

No the pump is attached to a strong point/frame member under the tank...you get to it via the pain in the ass (25 screw) access panel :)

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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Larry Jowdy » Tue Aug 30, 2016 5:32 am

My vote is YES for the extra tin, remove the mechanical fuel pump and install an electric pump and don't wrap the exhaust pipes unless you want to replace them soon.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Carlos G » Tue Aug 30, 2016 5:57 am

Wow, your access panel has 25 screws! I have a Vintage, it only has 6.

@Drummer
If you can't fabricate a hot air deflector like Rev did, then the dog house tin is better than nothing. It might not be an efficient design but it'll deflect the hot air down. I only used the top piece on my engine. I do have some plans in the works for a more efficient means of shielding and deflecting hot air from my engine bay, but I need to find the time to do some fabrication.

My rubber fuel line runs a similar route as yours with no ill effects. In my future quest of minimizing rubber hose in my engine compartment, I would like to run a hard line up the firewall and "T" left and right towards each carb. Then I can run just a few inches of rubber hose to each carb.

If you go with the electric fuel pump, do not use the cheap plastic inline filters, and install them with the pump, not in the engine compartment. Mine has a metal one before and another after the fuel pump. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P60504/

I second the no-wrap exhaust. It does look cool as hell, but I've read many stories of corrosion forming under the wrap.

CG

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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby danstern » Tue Aug 30, 2016 6:02 am

Now I'm worried about the wrap on one of the bikes. Its been on the HD for years and y'all have worried me about removing it to find the chrome gone and the pipe disintegrating. [:0]
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Drummerskey » Tue Aug 30, 2016 11:14 am

So, likely stupid question....................why should it go near the gas tank?

How hard is the bottom plate to take off and put back on?

Does it really hurt much to be in the engine compartment?

He suggested the cheap plastic fuel filters and against the metal ones so you can see the actual filter. Does it affect fuel flow to use the plastic ones and that is why? Just curious on the reasoning, most have said to only use the cheap plastic.

I also don't have much rubber fuel lines left. Most is the braided steel except for what he would replace. The inlets to the carbs are set up to receive the steel braided already (that's is what is there now).

For the tin, that is what he was saying.........to push the hot air down.
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