Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Engines, Transmissions, running gear, etc.

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Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby egrant5329 » Tue Aug 30, 2016 11:36 am

This is how your tin should look on the oil cooler.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Carlos G » Tue Aug 30, 2016 12:21 pm

Keep the fuel pump away from any heat source. In the engine compartment, there is a bigger chance of it vapor locking from the heat. Pumps don't pump vapor, just fluid. I had a 914 that would vapor lock like a boss because the fuel pump was in the engine compartment. Also, with the pump up front, there are less fuel line connections that lessen the chance of leaking in a place with heat and spark. There is plenty of room behind the front access plate for it. This area also houses the front beam, steering box, the horn, brake master cylinder, and clutch cylinder (if you have a hydro clutch), and in most of our cars the fuel pump and filters.

The plastic fuel filters have a tendency to crack and leak, and if exposed to heat, just increases the chance. I'm sure people have used them for years, but I'm not taking that chance.

My access plate only has 6 bolts. Revs has 25. It just depends on who built your car. I made some wooden ramps to roll up on to access my plate and work on the area that it covers.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Ralphc » Tue Aug 30, 2016 12:26 pm

Electric pumps are designed to push fuel, not pull it. Gravity flow from tank to pump, filter before pump; pump pushes fuel to engine bay, second metal filter before carbs.
Metal filters are used because heat ages plastic causing failures (ask any owner of an older car with plastic cooling system fittings); if you want to see the media there are cleanable metal filters available (System 1 for example, good but pricey); or just change the metal canisters regularly. Take a look into your fuel tank to inspect for corrosion.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby Drummerskey » Tue Aug 30, 2016 1:02 pm

Mine has 26 bolts at least :)

I have ramps (though I am not sure I can really use them, I have to measure to see if I would bottom out on them) but is removing the plate a one man job? It looks pretty heavy to me so dropping it or putting it back on looks like a pain without some help.

Also, currently changing out the fuel filters where they are can be done by me but moving them there if it isn't easy would be a mechanic job moving forward. Especially with regular change-outs.

I am just trying to see if this guy can do this on his own if I tell him that is where I want it.

@egrant - I like your tin. Not sure if that is what he planned to buy that was how he explained it.
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Re: Confirmation of mechanic suggestions

Postby RVosari » Tue Aug 30, 2016 1:42 pm

Well...the rotary pumps like to be gravity under the tank is a good place

The plate is easy...but the number of screws (which I think is actually 12) means it takes a while

The plastic filters are seen as a fire problem...I also like to be able to see into them :)

Your braided steel line would be very expensive to replace...just make sure the rubber underneath (the braid) is in good shape and can handle alcohol in the fuel

As for hot rises [8D]...but it dissipates in the engine just don't want hot air blowing on the carb. Keep in mind that the primary exhaust pipes are a lot hotter than the 190 degree air coming off the oil cooler.

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