....Bubbles in fibersteel gumball

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....Bubbles in fibersteel gumball

Postby condor » Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:30 pm

......I finally recieved my gumballs from fibersteel today and was quite successful in applying them. I did end up with a couple small bubbles in my first one and would like some tips in removing them. Any help as always is appreciated.

Thanks
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Postby Zack » Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:54 pm

Use a blade and make a very gentle small cut...carefull to do not go all the way to the paint... than press the area...
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Postby gotowo » Sun Apr 10, 2011 8:55 pm

You can also use a pin point to do it. Poke a small hole, squeeze out the air/water and blow it with a hair dryer on warm
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Postby JayNiz » Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:12 am

If the decal is already applied, then popping the bubbles is pretty much your only option. In the future, spray the area with Windex first. Apply the decal to the wet area. Doing this allows you to move the decal. Once it's in the final resting place, use a plastic squeegee starting in the center and work out the Windex and air bubbles towards the outer edge. This technique works really well and the Windex does not weaken the adhesive on the decal.

Good luck.
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Postby sjgharib » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:18 am

I guess the word \"p r i c k\" is not allowed :)
It took me a few seconds to guess what was beeped...
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Postby Larry Jowdy » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:44 am

Yeah, I changed it to POKE
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Postby Larry Jowdy » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:50 am

Jay, these are not decals such as you and I had when we made model cars.. They are static cling and don't have any adhesive and are typically made of vinyl.

The best thing I've found to use is a water bottle with one or two drops of liquid soap. Spray the affected area, then squeege the area removing the soapy water.


Also, in an organization I helped to create that deals with the issues at the sand dunes, we offer vinyl decals with adhesive. We don't recommend Windex or any other product that contains ammonia as it reacts with the adhesive and loosens the decals.
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Postby JayNiz » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:09 am

Thanks for the clarification Larry. Sounds like the Windex and squeegee approach should still work with the static cling vinyl. I've never had any issues with this approach on adhesive backed decals and I wasn't doing this on models cars - although it sounds like a good idea. I learned this approach from my friends at the race track in the motorcycle community when applying logos to bodywork, race numbers on number plates, or gold pin stripping similar to the way many have outlined Spyder darts. We would use this method after wet sanding the final base color coat on bodywork, apply the vinyl, then apply the final clear coat. This approach has never failed me in 15 years. Recently did it on a Cannondale road bike prior to clear coating as well.
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Postby Larry Jowdy » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:24 am

Maybe the glue on the decals we had for the sand organiztion was unique and just didn't like the ammonia????
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Postby JayNiz » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:29 am

Perhaps - although ammonia is the key ingredient to making Windex work so well in this situation - I'm assuming because of it's volatile properties.

When in doubt, try it on a small conspicuous area first.
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Postby YamaBice » Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:06 pm

The gumballs on my Spyder are of the static-cling variety, and I used a product called \"Sticker-On!\" to apply them.

I've also applied a lot of self-adhesive decals and emblems to my dirtbikes, racebikes, and streetbikes that I've restored, and I've used \"Sticker-On!\" for all those applications.

On the static-cling gumballs, if you get a bubble, you can either squeegee it out with a credit card wrapped in a soft cloth, or you can just peel the gumball off until you get to the bubble, then smooth it back down again.

One thing to remember is that it is almost impossible to get all the little bubbles out until the application solution has evaporated, and then it even takes exposure to the warm sun to enable the graphics to lay completely flat.

I suspect that \"Sticker-On\" is a mild, soap-based solution. But, I have NEVER heard anyone use Windex to apply decals of any sort, nor would I advise it. Ammonia and other solvents will break down most adhesives, after all, as will alcohol.

Just remember that, if you apply your decals in the garage, and you have a few bubbles, let your car sit in the sun for a bit, and those bubbles will soon disappear. I wouldn't \"poke\" or cut the bubbles with a pin or knife until you've given the gumballs a chance to \"set up\" in the sun.
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Postby Greenberg » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:57 pm

Yama is correct, do not poke bubbles until the liquid underneath has had a chance to dry out. If you allow then this time, you can typically just press on them with your thumb and they will press down. Poking them with anything sharp increses the chance of poking through the paint and into the glass, thus allowing an access point for water to penetrate the paint and go into your fiberglass. Not a good situation.

Besides, no one can see the bubbles when you are ripping around at 80mph!!!!!!!
Ya gotta drive it like ya stole it!
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Postby slackmac » Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:06 am

I use Windex but any light soapy solution does the trick. Wet the area, peal off the backing, apply the sticker, position it, squeezy out the liquid and bubbles. Wait until it dries, then hammer around the track as fast as possible.
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Postby daVinci 550 » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:07 am

... while your at it, you may wish to use this thread to discuss how one cleans, polishes, and waxes around said decals (assuming they are the non-static cling types). [8D]
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Postby Larry Jowdy » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:12 am

Mild soapy water, pat dry and wax over the decal. This also works if it's a static cling vinyl appliance.
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