Next thing... Weber 44IDF

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Next thing... Weber 44IDF

Postby JRGilbert » Mon Sep 04, 2017 2:57 pm

One more thing.
I've just rebuilt the carbs and find no instructions as to how to set up the accelerator pump.
I've got the jamb nut set with about 1/4" of thread sticking out.
Seems to run ok but will load up around town.

Any advice welcomed.
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Re: Next thing... Weber 44IDF

Postby egrant5329 » Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:16 pm

I wish I could help you on that one, but that is one area I have left alone on my carbs. It is easy to measure the squirt output to make sure they are set equal and I have done that in the past. Below is from a post that I like on tuning carbs. http://tampavw.forumotion.com/t1215-tun ... e-1-engine

First, make sure that they are adjusted the same. Drive it, and see what happens when you give it gas more quickly. If when you are in second or third gear, and you push the pedal from cruise to WOT over the course of about a half second, and it bogs, try unscrewing each accelerator pump nut about 3 turns and try it again. If it's worse, then they were too lean, and you should go back the other way. Try 3 turns at a time until they are right. You shouldn't need more than about 1/2" of rod sticking out of the nut. If you do, you might have some timing issues you need to deal with. For those of you with an air-fuel meter, your meter's response to mashing the pedal should be as close to steady as possible, but that's not realistic to expect. If your engine falls on its face, and the meter goes lean, screw the nuts in about three turns on each side, and try again. Same rules for if it goes rich for any period of time, like two seconds or so. What I like to do is back off the screws until it falls on its face, and then start screwing them back in until it doesn't anymore. Too much fuel from the accelerator pumps is going to cause the excess fuel to wash oil off the cylinders, and cause you poor mileage.

If you don't have a wideband I highly recommend you get one. If you ask what size jets people are using on the same size engine you'll probably get 5 different idle/main/air corr recommendations, but unless you measure what's going on in your engine you won't know what is right. The odd thing is the engine will feel like it is running pretty good on all of them, but in actuallity it is not.
Ed
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Re: Next thing... Weber 44IDF

Postby DannyP » Wed Sep 13, 2017 3:12 pm

I should have had Greg put a bung in my new exhaust before coating. Oh well, I'll have to do it now I guess.

Ed, spot-on advice for dialing them in.
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Re: Next thing... Weber 44IDF

Postby DannyP » Wed Sep 13, 2017 3:14 pm

Loading up around town? So, are you on the accelerator a lot, or is it steady state down in the lower rpm range and loading up? If it smells like raw gas, you could be pig-rich in the idle circuit.
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Re: Next thing... Weber 44IDF

Postby egrant5329 » Wed Sep 13, 2017 4:44 pm

DannyP wrote:I should have had Greg put a bung in my new exhaust before coating. Oh well, I'll have to do it now I guess.


Innovate has a tailpipe sniffer that clamps on your tailpipe. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcar ... 271&page=1
Anyone who uses it should know a few things. First is will scratch you exhaust where it clamps down. Second add an extra nut on the clamp bolt to help lock the tensioning bolt, or else it will work loose and scratch the exhaust more. Worse case it will come off the exhaust. Third, I recomend adding a strap or wire that will hold it in place so it can't work it's way out even if the tensioning bolt loosens up.

I know this because it worked loose on a highway pull at about 90mph a couple years ago. It unscrewed from the sensor and I found it about 2 miles back. The sniffer was fine, but the sensor was left dragging the ground, destroying it. ](*,)
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